Range and oven repair notes

Name the fuel first, then name which burner failed. A gas oven and an electric oven do not share the part that makes heat. A cooktop burner that fails while the oven still works is a third circuit, separate from both.

Gas oven, no flame

The igniter sits in the flame path and it has a second job. It has to draw enough current to open the gas valve. An igniter that glows for a minute and never lets gas through is worn out, even though you can still see it light up. An igniter that stays dark needs the oven control and the thermal fuse checked before the igniter is replaced on a guess.

Light a cooktop burner first. If the whole range is dead to gas, the shutoff valve for the appliance is the place to look, not the igniter.

Electric oven, no heat

Look at the bake element. A blister, a break in the sheath, or a spot that no longer glows means the element is open. If the element looks whole and the oven never reaches the temperature you set, or it runs past it, the oven sensor is the usual cause. The sensor is the probe clipped at the back of the cavity. Its resistance changes with heat. The control board can fail as well, and it is the last part to swap, after the element and the sensor have been ruled out.

Broil works and bake does not: the supply to the range is present. The fault is in the bake circuit, the bake element or the relay that feeds it. Bake works and broil does not: the same idea, on the broil element and its relay.

One cooktop burner

A gas burner that clicks and will not light, while the others light, has a wet or dirty igniter cap, a cracked burner head, or a bad lead to that electrode. Clean the cap and the head and try again. All burners click and none light: the spark module, or no gas at the range.

An electric coil that is dead while the others heat is the coil or the receptacle it plugs into. Burnt contacts in the receptacle will kill a new coil the same day. The infinite switch behind the knob fails by sticking on or never turning on. A coil that stays red after the knob is off is that switch, and it should be disconnected until it is replaced.

Lights on, no heat anywhere

After a power cut, some ranges will not heat until the clock is set, and some have a control lock that survived the outage. The sheet that came with that model says which key holds the lock. Put the brand and the exact words on the display in the email before anyone starts swapping elements.