Washer repair notes
A wash cycle is four jobs in order: fill, agitate or tumble, drain, spin. The job that never starts is the one to name in the email. A machine that fails in the middle is a different part from a machine that never leaves the first step.
No water comes in
Open the supply valves and look for a kink in the hoses. The inlet valve on the washer has small screens where the hoses attach, and those screens fill with sand and rust. Clean screens and a valve that never clicks leave the valve itself, or the control that is supposed to call for water.
The tub fills and then sits
A top-loader will not run the motor until the lid switch closes. A front-loader will not tumble until the door lock reports that it is locked. A machine that fills and then does nothing, with the lid or door shut, is often waiting on that switch.
A front-loader that will not unlock can still be holding water from the last cycle. It keeps the lock until it has drained, and it cannot drain if the pump is dead. From the outside, a bad lock and a dead pump look alike. Say whether you can hear the pump, and whether the tub is full.
Clothes wash, water stays
That is the drain side: the pump, the coin trap on a front-loader, or the hose. The hose should rise into a standpipe. Pushed too far down, it can siphon the tub or sit under water and stop the pump from clearing it. A pump that hums and moves nothing usually has debris in the impeller. A pump that stays silent has lost the motor or the signal to run.
It drains, then the cabinet walks
Level the feet first. A front-loader that still has its shipping bolts in the rear of the cabinet will walk on the first spin. Those bolts are a transport lock, not a worn shock. If the bolts are already out and the machine still pounds, the shock absorbers or the suspension rods are worn, and they get replaced as a set so the tub stays square.
A roar that climbs with spin speed, on a washer that used to be quiet, is the tub bearing. Water from a leaking tub seal is what finishes that bearing. Once the roar is loud, the job is the bearing and often the spider the drum hangs on.
Smell from a front-loader
The rubber door boot holds water and lint after the cycle. Leave the door open so the boot can dry. Detergent poured to the top of the cap, past the line molded into it, leaves residue in that boot. The smell is a cleaning problem until the boot is torn and water is on the floor. A torn boot is a parts job.
| Symptom | Where to look | Check you can do |
|---|---|---|
| No fill | Supply valves, kinked hoses, inlet screens, inlet valve | Unscrew the hoses and rinse the screens |
| Fills, then sits | Lid switch or door lock | Confirm the lid or door is fully shut and note any lock click |
| Water left in the tub | Drain pump, coin trap, drain hose height | Open the cleanout and see if the pump hums |
| Walks across the floor on spin | Leveling feet, shipping bolts, shocks or rods | Look at the rear panel for bolts still installed |
| Roar that rises with spin | Tub bearing and the seal ahead of it | Note whether water has been staining the floor under the tub |